
How New York invented restaurant criticism: from anonymous dinners to the star system
The city's dining journalism began as society gossip, became a serious literary form mid-century, and turned into the data business we read today.
Food as city life: immigrant kitchens and what the second generation changes, greenmarkets and suppliers, delivery platforms and their effect on menus, dining rooms that outlive the neighborhoods around them, and the rituals New Yorkers build around a regular table. Reported with attention to the people cooking.
How the city eats.

The city's dining journalism began as society gossip, became a serious literary form mid-century, and turned into the data business we read today.

Between roughly 1918 and the mid-1930s, Harlem's dining rooms and supper clubs turned Southern cooking into uptown high culture.

The Manhattan steakhouse descends from the beef-baron dining rooms of the 1880s — and every era of the city since has left its mark on the menu.

Pastrami on rye did not arrive fully formed — it was engineered over a century by Jewish immigrants, pushcart economics and the deli counter itself.